MS-II Mid Side Matrix Construction Information

[berkfinger]

Hello,

I'm putting together an MSII_38 board at the moment. I noticed the BOM doesn't appear to include the 4 x 1M ohm resistors that are needed for R4, R11, R12, R14...

I DO have 4 spare 100k resistors from the BOM order.

Just checking if I am supposed to go with 1M ohm?

Many thanks,

Simon.

[mediatechnology]

Hello,

I'm putting together an MSII_38 board at the moment. I noticed the BOM doesn't appear to include the 4 x 1M ohm resistors that are needed for R4, R11, R12, R14...

I DO have 4 spare 100k resistors from the BOM order.

Just checking if I am supposed to go with 1M ohm?

Many thanks,

Simon.

Hi Simon. Thank you for joining us!

You can use 100KΩ.

R4, R11 and R12 provide bias current in the event a pot or stepped switch isn't connected to Width or Tilt EQ.
100KΩ is fine and best if the control is a pot.
If a make-before-break stepped switch is used 1MΩ will provide a little more accuracy in step size near the midpoint of a linear taper switch.

R14 provides bias current for IC8 when J1 is open and when RY4 is switching between positions with J1 linked to "A.".
100KΩ is a good all-around choice for R14 and, if a Mid attenutor isn't used or J1 isn't in the -3dB "B" position, then 10KΩ might be even better when RY4 switches.

BTW IMHO keeping Mid unity gain at J1 ("A") and not using the Mid Attenuator connector is the configuration I would recommend.
Pivoting Side gain around Mid using the Width control achieves the same result and saves a pot or switch.
Mid build-up from strong Mono correlation can always be compensated using RY1 the Mid Gain relay which is an accurate -6 on encode and +6 on decode.
When more Width gain is needed than the 6 dB provided J1 set to B allows up to 9 dB of relative Side gain.

[mediatechnology]

@berkfinger Thanks for reminding me that although I updated the instructions back in February when I changed the BOM I never uploaded it. The updated assembly documents are in the first post. Still need to change the schematic...

[berkfinger]

Thankyou that clears it up!

I guess I should ask before I order one:

Does this switch look suitable for switching Insert Relays and the functions of the M/S board? I've been struggling to find many options here in Australia.

https://au.element14.com/eao/18-287-035 ... o%20switch

Thanks,

Simon.

[mediatechnology]

Those EAO will work and are nice switches.

You might want to take a look at NKK from Mouser. The YB-series is similar and may be more available and less expensive: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/295/ ... 663306.pdf

Whatever bushing mount switch you buy be sure to order a wrench to tighten the bushing.

[gwpt]

Here's my Mid Side and Mix-Add. All working wonderfully!

Front Panels:

Insides:

[mediatechnology]

Thanks for posting the pics of the MSII and the Wet Dry Mix Add!

What are the part numbers for the pushbutton switches on the MSII?
Do they mechanically or electronically latch?

Also what's the source of the PSU board in the Wet Dry chassis?

[gwpt]

No worries!

The buttons I got off Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/353822671319
There are several variants, the ones I got were:
LED voltage 3-9V
Latching (This is a mechanical latch)
High Head (i.e. the button sticks out a bit. I tried the flat ones but I found them a bit hard to press)
And colors to suit (I grouped them by function, i.e. bypass, mute, gain, effect)

As for the regulator board, I can't find the original link as it's old but again it was Ebay, and something like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285412535679
I figured as the circuit was so simple, just the regulators, diodes and caps, it would be ok to use this.
For M/S I made my own, as I didn't have one of those Ebay boards handy and I just wanted to finish the project!

[vintagedesign]

Looks like OnPow switches https://www.onpowbutton.com/

[mediatechnology]

Thanks for the info and links gwpt and vintagedesign.

Wayne